‘Fear and joy’: Voices from Damascus

The walls are closing in on Damascus. In a development unthinkable only one week ago, more than 50 years of the Assad family’s rule of Syria appears to be swiftly unraveling.

From the south, opposition forces rapidly pushed towards the Syrian capital on Saturday, taking control of parts of its southern suburbs. From the north, factions led by Hayat Tahrir al-Sham (HTS) advanced, clashing inside neighborhoods of Homs city after capturing Hama and Aleppo in recent days. From the east, Free Syrian Army (FSA) forces advanced as far as Adra prison, 16 kilometers from the center of Damascus, at the time of publication.

President Bashar al-Assad’s longtime allies—Russia, Iran, Hezbollah—are distracted or degraded, and appear to have abandoned him.

As the situation on the ground rapidly changed throughout the day on Saturday, Syria Direct spoke to three civilians in and around the capital—all of whom asked to be identified only by pseudonyms—to learn more about what they were seeing, hearing and feeling.

They described a mixture of hope, trepidation and confusion. All believed that a change was coming. 

Suham al-Ali*, 35, a teacher living in the al-Mazraa neighborhood of Damascus: 

I was walking in the [central] al-Baramka neighborhood today. I found sanitation workers removing pictures of the president from lightpoles. At first, I didn’t believe what was happening. When I approached, [I saw] they were gathering it all in cars to move it. 

Today, in al-Baramka, al-Fahhama and Sahat Arnous, there are no pictures of the president. You see people’s fear and joy at the same time. I don’t know if I sensed that as an expression of what is inside me, but honestly it seems as though everybody is anticipating the joy of what is happening. 

I also noticed convoys of four-wheel drive cars with tinted windows—usually the cars of officials or shabiha—carrying people and driving in columns at high speed, usually heading out of Damascus. The odd thing is that they are driving in continuous convoys. I felt that they do not want to, or are afraid to, leave alone in these vehicles. 

We usually see military police and security patrols searching for those wanted for conscription. Since two days ago, I haven’t noticed any signs of this in Damascus. 

We used to encounter many people whose task is hurting people. One of them, in Rukn al-Din, was always threatening and cursing people. Since the beginning of the battles in northern Syria, we haven’t known where he is, and we haven’t heard his voice. I have a neighbor, who works for the regime and is originally from the Qalamoun mountains. It is known that he is a shabih. He went to his village last week and doesn’t want to return. Two days ago, I asked him when he would come back. He said: ‘It’s over, the country will be handed over.’

I got a call from my friend [today]. She is in the Nahr Aisha area, at the southern entrance of Damascus towards Daraa. She told me: ‘Take care of yourselves and stay inside, because they’ve gotten to Kiswa city, close to the entrance of Damascus.’ For me, I haven’t seen any opposition presence so far. 

To be honest, I am afraid I am living in a dream of change. I hope the situation will change in a moment, that power will be handed over without battles. 

I just received a text message from the local communications company, warning citizens against believing rumors, as it described them, in enemy media. I’ll send it to you.

“Alarmism and media hype…its goal is to spread chaos and deception. The Syrian people are aware of these lies and their dimensions. Boycott the enemy’s media. Beware of the media war. All rumors and misleading news aim to confuse the awareness and will of our people. Be responsible and do not spread everything you hear.”

Abd al-Ilah Othman*, 50, a trader in Damascus:

Nobody knows what is happening in Damascus. People are still afraid to inquire openly about what is going on. We are in a state of suspense and astonishment. 

Traders in Damascus are preparing for what comes next, trying to collect their money and reduce their business. Prices are extremely high today, unfortunately, because the [Syrian] pound has fallen unbelievably. As someone working in trade, I believe the current economic activity in Damascus, and traders’ efforts to reduce their work these days, is an indication of a change to come, but we don’t know what that will be. 

I didn’t leave the house today. I think there are many like me, who prefer not to go out. Last night, though, I visited a friend on the outskirts of Damascus. The situation at the military checkpoints was unbelievable, the state of alert and large number of personnel. But the treatment was completely different from before. 

When the military action began in northern Syria, we noticed a tightening of checkpoints and readiness inside Damascus. Yesterday at the checkpoint, the personnel didn’t speak to those passing through or do a security check. If I want to put it precisely, regime forces at its checkpoints are in a state of unprecedented humiliation. 

To be honest, I burst into tears today. Tears of joy, of course. I never expected to see this day, especially after the regime regained control of East Ghouta, south Damascus and Daraa years ago [in 2018]. We expected the regime had turned the page on any change. After neighboring countries restored relations with it, this belief became even more entrenched. 

I did not expect to live these moments. Our hope is that the regime will fall—for the sake of the tears of the widows, the blood of the martyrs, the suffering of the detainees, the pain of the wounded. For all of this, I hope our dream will become a reality, that we will see a new Syria. 

Marie Khouri*, 65, a retired state employee who is currently in Reef Dimashq, 20 kilometers from the capital:

I would love to know the truth of what is going on in my beloved country. I just don’t believe anybody. All the media is lying, and foreign media is the worst. What hurts is that they are amusing themselves with the pain of others. Honestly, the media has lost its primary mission. 

Everyone claims to be defending Syrian citizens. Everyone has wronged us. Syria is what matters to me. I am with every person who protects and builds Syria. 

[As a former state employee,] what is there to be afraid of? I am a Syrian citizen who served her country faithfully, and loves it very much. I served for 42 years. 

[As a Christian,] the problem [with factions such as HTS] is that I don’t know what they really are. There are conflicting opinions about them. I am afraid of lawlessness, of there being no order. There are people who take advantage of chaos. 

I hope for the best, especially from the young people who have traveled abroad and learned. If they return, they will be the ones to build a modern Syria. Syria deserves to be beautiful and enjoyed by her people. Syrians are a living and intelligent people, but the world came together to destroy them.

This piece was originally produced in Arabic and translated into English by Mateo Nelson.